What a surprising visit I made today for FREE at Peterborough Cathedral with the Heritage Open Day weekend. I booked a free slot on their opening of the Bishop’s Palace, somewhere which I’ve seen often when there have been outdoor garden events on, but never stepped inside.
It was a lovely sunny day and well worth my free ticket to get a sneeky look at what inside those fabulous old windows. This time through the front door!
Your first glimpse is the wonderful tiled paving underfoot in black, white and red, where maybe thousands have walked before me when either living here or being invited in. Two granduous stone columns flanking the fireplace welcome you in, but you dare not sit today as it’s not your place to. Maybe on a cold winter’s day I would have been very tempted. Overhead an arched columned ceiling with intricate detail, all showing off great craftmanship for a Bishop’s abode.
Did you know that the wake of Mary Queens of Scots was held here after she was executed at Fotheringhay Castle in February 1587. The palace and Cathedral nave were draped in black cloth (costing £230,000 in today’s money), the effigy was laid to rest in this entrance hall (originally the palace undercroft) and a massive banquet was held upstairs for 300 mourners in the Great Hall, of which sadly no longer exists. However, something else was that, Queen Mary had been sat in Fotheringhay for over 6 months in her lead coffin beforehand as no one actually knew what was to become of her. Eventually, it was decided that she would be laid to rest here in our Cathedral. She was later removed and placed in Westminster Abbey by her son King James VI and King James I in 1612.
To the right of the entrance hall you enter into a small chapel with a beautiful stained glass window. On the table I found information about the Abbots and Bishops who have gone before, starting in 670AD with Seaxwulf who was the founder and first abbot of Medeshamstede, which became Peterborough Abbey. He was followed by Abbot Martin de Bec (1150AD), Abbot Benedict (1174AD) who constructed the Becket Chapel, Abbot Kirkton (1510AD) and lastly to Abbot Chambers who became a Bishop. Peterborough Abbey became Peterborough Cathedral in 1541 after handing over the keys to King Henry.
To the right of the entrance hall is a large lounge area, soft furnishings to welcoming guests and views overlooking the neatly kept gardens. You find out that Bishop’s Palace served as a VAD Voluntary Aid Detachment hospital during the first world war. It served 50 beds after being opened up by the Bishop of Peterborough Theodore Woods in 1918. A diary on the table displays all the soldiers’ names who were cared for here along with black and white photos of that time.
Then you can enter into the dining room. A grand room with a large dressed table and floor to ceiling windows. Portraits on the walls still hang of King Charles I and his wife Henrietta dated around 1630. As the saying goes, after the ransaking of the Cathedral by Cromwell and his soldiers, King Charles I was imprisoned here for two nights in the precincts (whether here, in a precinct abode or the gatehouse).
Outside you enjoy a walk through the gardens and admire the orchard which is brimming with pears, apples and other fruits. I welcomes a couple of pieces to take home (with permission) from some of the oldest and rarest fruit trees you may come across. Dates unknown.
All in all it was an interesting half hour looking into history and seeing behind closed doors. If they come up again, please attend, it’s well worth it. (However, don’t book a free slot if you’re not going to turn up!!!!)
